OFF TO COLUMBIA 2007 Via ARUBA

This page describes our voyage to and stay in Columbia, particularly Cartagena from  2007 to 2008

To go directly to our arrival in Columbia Click here ARRIVAL AT COLUMBIA

To go directly to our departure from Columbia Click here DEPARTING CARTAGENA ON OUR WAY TO PANAMA

The adventure heightened as we hauled anchor in Spanish Waters. Santa Marta Bay on the island of Curacao provided a protected lee haven for us to wait one day for accompanying catamarans. Roberta and Ken on Second Wind kindly hosted a meeting of the minds and great spaghetti. At 0530 with the whisper of dawn on Thursday April 5th we felt our way out of the narrow entrance and set course for Aruba.

One other mono hull, Calypso, and 4 cats, South of Reality, Second Wind, Lioness, and Neos, sailed out soon after. This stretch of water is known for its robust disposition! Forty-five miles to the northwest we found the airport anchorage in Aruba deep and well marked. This insured us of another possible early departure. All listened to varying weather reports and the cat entourage plus Calypso decided to stay, tour Aruba and await the next window. With a haul out in Cartagena beckoning, another 0530 departure in the lee of Aruba was idyllic.

The calm of early morning with dawn breaking is a very special time at sea. South of Reality radioed about 8 o’clock that they were underway too. We were glad of company. Our initial motor sail turned into a brisk ride as Isla Monjes loomed out of the haze fifty-three miles slightly south of west.

These desolate rocks house a Venezuelan coast guard station. Very graciously they have a long line secured between their rocks and we were welcome to secure to it. We did. Jeffery and Tina on Sours, with their lovely lab, Bessie were braving the surge on the dock. They pointed out the line and we retrieved it as well as a goodly number of little crabs. Once secured, two very young officers appeared on the one long sturdy dock, hailing to us. Having no boat they needed a dinghy ride out to check us in to their country! South of Reality very graciously lowered their dinghy and retrieved the boys. Both boats were registered. Having caught Dorado en route, Byron and Denise treated us to a delicious fish dinner before we all fell into bed. On the photo to the left is a View of the Venezuelan Coast Guard Station.

OUR ARRIVAL AT COLUMBIA  2007

Punta Gallinas was our next challenge. Hoping to round this cape in the morning necessitated a 2230 departure from Monjes. Slipping the line in the dark, then falling back into deep water worked well. Goodbye Venezuela. Holding our breath we motor sailed around the cape into Colombia. This 80 mile passage is known as one of the five worst in the world. Between Punta Gallinas and Cabo de la Vela one will note large wind generators ashore. On the approach to Cabo de la Vela the coastguard from Bahia Portete came alongside. Informing them on the radio of our impending anchorage prevented a sea boarding. After we were comfortably anchored they came alongside very proficiently. Our passports were their main interest. We needed to read our names off for them. They informed us that if we needed assistance in any way, call them, Guardacosta at Puerto Bolivar. Following Pizzazz’ advice, we filed a float plan with the coastguard and followed up on it in further emails. Their email is <navesmcp05@dimar.mil.co>

Pizzazz, Lourae and Randy, are fellow cruisers who have detailed their experiences and navigation advice for all cruisers. They are extremely knowledgeable regarding this coast. We found their information to be right on the mark. Easter Sunday in Cabo de la Vela was a real treat.

The residents from the neighboring village ferried family after family around our `veleros’ en route to the beach. Many stopped to talk and were very proud of their indigenous Guajira genes. On shore is a park area, which hosts many tourists. Easter dinner on Tundra was Canadian pork tenderloin from Curacao down to chocolate cake. We enjoyed Denise and Byron’s company.

A hike to the lighthouse revealed a very bleak environ of red soil and scrub. A spectacular view from the Cape can be seen behind

The shore side was alive with jellyfish and our first sighting of very showy sea slugs. One of these interesting creatures can be seen below

Cinco Bahias are 120 miles southwest. Our 1200 start for the 120 miles to Bahia Guayaraca was slightly modified as Tundra insisted upon and Brian installed a new fuel filter. About 2200 in the dark of the night we powered inside of the oil rig at Riohacha. The oil fumes were very strong, but it was flat calm. South of Reality we experienced quite a lot of wave action further offshore. Our auto helm decided to pack it in necessitating hand steering. Now that’s a wake up call! Fortunately, with a little encouragement our old auto helm took over. In the dead of night I was steering on a light on our course that eventually appeared to have running lights. It was a tug conveniently coming up our reciprocal course. Needless to say we moved over!

Approaching the Bahias next day provided spectacular vistas of snow covered mountain peaks as you can see in the above photo. At 1400 on Tuesday we anchored in Bahia Guyaraca dropping the anchor into beautiful sand. Next day South, Sours and Tundra went ashore to a true Colombian welcome.

Ronaldo Garcia entertained us with his stories wanting us to stay longer. Next day we played dominoes and cajoled with him swapping Espanol for English. Brian took we girls snorkeling the fringes. Elkhorn coral in bloom was fascinating. Holding was supreme as the williwaws swished us around in circles. Tundra entertained for pancakes and Sours made great pizza. We’re baking again, trading yeast for yogurt.

We took the time to have a short hike ashore to view the beautiful landscape. And of course the cruisers had time for cocktail hour with Ronaldo. To much fun as you can see.

Anchon Chica is just around the corner so we moved over. Watching the fishermen pull in their nets to shore was exciting. Sardines were their main catch with all sharing in the take-even the dogs. Here we exchanged our first dollars for pesos. The rate is  2 Peso to 1 USD.

The next leg was quiet so we fished our way along enjoying the green coloured terrain-perhaps copper? Passing the ancient city of Santa Martha we wondered at skyscrapers built on sand mounds. Santa Martha can be seen in the background in the photo to the left. No fish were caught, but the apartment buildings and busy harbour at Rodadero attested to civilization plus again.

We made the mistake of anchoring in Rodedero on Sunday afternoon. The sand was great holding, but we must have had a paddle boat a minute coming to visit. I thought I might catch a nap in readiness for our wee hour departure. No way! Music and drum beat didn’t quit until 0100. South of Reality stayed behind as Byron had a nasty jellyfish sting.

The next leg promised to be tricky. Shortly after leaving the coastguard called from the location on the right to see who we were at our lat. and long. Pleasant and courteous they were. Good morning. How many people aboard? Where are you from? What is your flag? Having answered their questions Brian asked to identify the ship we were approaching as it was poorly lit and we were confused as to which course to take to avoid collision. We were politely ordred to stand by. Soon after we had this conversation the  large freighter that was apparently drifting in front of us suddenly lit up with all lights and moved away from our course. A tack by us became  unnecessary and interestingly when we were well passed most the ships lights were turned off as they were before.All this was very helpful and gave us a good feeling about Columbia. Advice to cross the mighty Magdalena River early in the morning was right on.

Departing Rodadero at 0230 got us to the river at 0900 the next morning. There is no mistaking river water. It’s muddy, smells earthy, and has lots to present. Our welcome was an airplane nose floating by just 10 feet away. Several good size deadheads lazily bobbed along. At 0900 there was already quite a lot of action. I prayed that nothing would happen to the rudder.

We arrived at Punta Hermosa by 1300 hrs, and anchored inside the outer reef as seen from Tundra's bow on the left. The anchor was happy planted firmly in sand once again. Fishermen powered around us until dark then waved a friendly goodbye.

Being on our own again a 0500 departure was great for the last leg of 50 miles. Sailing is wonderful. Sailing over the ancient sunken wall into Cartagena we saw 10.7 feet. On the right enjoy the view of the city of Cartagena just before crossing the wall.

Arrival outside Club Nautico was exhilarating to say the least. An old friend, PG on Tarona, from Sweden, was anchored off with us. We met him in the Great Lakes 15 years ago. Yes, it’s a small world.

We moved into Club Nautico on the 18th of April. Friends on Piper and Cabaret welcomed us and ‘showed us the ropes’. The sailing community is a wonderfully tight knit group of people.

By chance, I sat down beside a lady at a potluck. She grew up in Sarnia. Donna (McEachren) is Linda Brogden’s sister and daughter of the McEachrens who owned Wanesa, an Alberg 37, in SYC. She and husband, Cosmos, have their Koukla moored at Club de Pesca, a block away. Much time was spent with them touring Cartagena as seen in some of the photos below

Another couple, Rija and John, on Queen of Hearts, have written quite a comprehensive document re provisioning for the San Blas to Cartagena and west from Curacao. Club Nautico is a friendly marina. Every nationality is represented. John, the dock master of long tenure, is ever helpful and obliging. Below you see  Tundra tied up to the dock in Club Nautico. Her bow is tied to the dock and her stern is fastened to moorings. These stern lines and Tundra's bottom become coated very quickly with a stubborn encrustation unlike anything we  we have seen before. When anchoring for more than a few days depend on a major cleanup on your lines.

Cartagena appears to be safe in the city itself, particularly, Ammurallada, the old walled city. There are miles to be walked exploring and usurping the history. Several places we have enjoyed so far are Castillo San Felipe, San Pedro Claver Cathedral, Gold Museum and the Museum of Inquisition.  We have just scratched the surface as museums and art abound. Below we  show a sample of  two of  the pieces of the many as seen throughout the New and Old City.

At present we are hauled at Ferroalquimar yard. Our boat attendant will be Alphonso and he is supervising the removal of all Tundra’s previous old hard bottom paint. She will dry out until our return in December. Tundra also is receiving a new hard dodger to protect us from the rainier climate that we will be getting as we head further west, next season.

Christmas Note as written from Cartagena December 25, 2007

Happy Holidays To All

2007 has been an action packed year again. Exploring and enjoying Curacao in the ABC island group off the coast of Venezuela kept us busy until early April. Courtney, Greg, and Madi flew down for a visit and some warm weather in February.Grandparenthood is wonderful. Another major event in that department witnessed the arrival of Barrett Everett on June 21st. Our happy, healthy solstice baby was born to Courtney and Greg much to Madi’s delight. While standing by in Vancouver, we all managed a visit to Courtney and Greg’s cabin at St Vincent Bay on the sunshine coast-bassinet and all. Rod and Wilde drove up to camp, fish and swim with us. Great fun! Wilde is 7 now and experiencing home schooling on Bowen with Titania and Rod. Titania has just had her art show at the library on Bowen and has a webpage sporting her pieces and philosophy at www.titania.ca .As Easter approached, the trade winds died down and we sailed off west to Cartagena. This can be a particularly nasty stretch of water entering the Columbia Basin and timing is critical. Beginning our week in transit from Curacao to Cartagena was a robust sail to Aruba. The desolate Los Monjes (the .monks) in Ve. was our next stop. They are 2 giant barren rocks in the middle of nowhere housing a Ve navy outpost. A quiet motorboat ride around the unpredictable Punta Gallina put us into Cabo de Vela for Easter weekend. Resting at anchor here was entertainment plus as the residents came alongside full of curiosity and greetings on their way to the beach. Motor sailing down the coast provided many lovely vistas. Approaching Cinqo Bahias(Five Bays) surrounded by towering mountain peaks, snow caps came into full view as we prepared to drop anchor. Folk here were very friendly. The fishermen were hauling their fishnets onto shore by hand. Many small fish were dinner for their families. Several days and nights of mistrals swirling us around at anchor encouraged us to move on to Rodadero.  Greenish sand banks hinted of copper in the soil. An overnight passage took us to the Rio Magdalena in the early morning. Passage through it took about 4 hours. The water was mud laden and swirling to say the least. One could smell mother earth and we watched carefully for flotsam and jetsam. Leaving the river we picked up good sailing wind. One more night anchored in the protection of the Barranquilla reef with the fishermen all waving their hellos, and then we had clear fresh sailing into Cartagena. Cartagena is an historic walled city protected by a sunken wall. It was the Spanish stronghold in the Caribbean from 1500’s on. The entrance through navigation markers was narrow and shallow at 10 feet 2 inches. What a thrill to finally be inside the harbour. Club Nautico, a small marina, was home for the next month until we hauled in an astillero (shipyard). Yard workers were keenly interested in caring for Tundra. One of the pluses as being in this yard is that we were able to rent, very reasonably a small apartment for the duration of our stay. Living aboard Tundra here would have not been  pleasant! A restaurant was also available with good inexpensive local food. We were indeed fed well as the lady cooks made sure of that.

On Thanksgiving weekend Dad’s whole family including grandchildren and great grandchildren gathered in Osoyoos to celebrate his 98th birthday. All were present at the Osoyoos Holiday Inn in glorious Okanagan sunshine. Hikes, dinners, indoor swimming, and mega visiting ensued.

Our Ferroalquimar yard experience was quite successful in that Tundra now sports a new hard dodger, thanks to Neilson who over saw it's construction.Stainless work was done by Bianney and crew. At club Nautico stainless steel handrails were also made and installed  by Bianney and crew. Yes, Santa was good to us both!

Above Kathy is getting eager to hit the water. Only the stand marks to paint. To the right Kathy, Neilson and I couldn't be happier!

Launch day was December 20th and since we have been anchored off Club Nautico in Cartagena. Plans are to have dinner with Fia, Koukla, and other yatistas at Club de Pesca. A few more work days on teak, then we’ll be heading out to the San Blas Islands. We will update our webpage at www.svtundra.ca as we progress. We always love to hear from you so keep us posted.  “Time and tide wait for no man”
We wish you peace and a safe, happy holiday.

Feliz Navidad,
Brian and Kathy

Columbia 2007

From December 5th to the 20th 2007 we worked on Tundra in Ferro Alquimar yard in Monomal just a short bus or taxi ride out of Cartagena. In spite of a thorough cleaning of lockers and all before we left in May, Tundra was full of mildew and needed a total vinegar and water interior bath. In future we will not use a black plastic wrap to cover her. The heat must have been incredible during the rainy season and ventilation is a must. Fortunately we had cleaned and wrapped cushions and all inside in anticipation of a paint job, so they survived nicely. Brian installed a new exhaust mixing elbow and replaced the pressure water switch.

 Alphonso removed 25 years of bottom paint and the bottom dried while we were in Canada. Tundra lost a little weight to be sure. Willie and Rumiro, under Brian's supervision, added 2 coats of epoxy, 4 coats of epoxy primer, and 5 coats of bottom paint. Rumiro worked tirelessly in the heat polishing the hull and stripping the teak. Other trades people worked along with us. Nielson fabricated a new hard dodger in which we are very pleased. The old dodger is now our prototype side and forward window panels and is working quite well. We'll look for a finished product in Panama.

Bianney Torres and his crew made and installed beautiful stainless steel handrails-our Xmas present. No more varnishing needed!

We highly recommend tour guide and taxi driver, Andres Castano. He picked us up at the airport and drove us back and forth to banks and stores while in the yard. When the work was done, he took us for a great day tour to Volcan de Totumo for a mud bath!!

The Popa is a working convent, circa 1500s, high on a hill in mid Cartagena with an eagle's eye view of the area. It was appropriately named as the early Spanish conquistadors thought it looked like the stern of a sailing ship. Lunch in Manzanillo on the waterfront was a quiet interlude.

Here are some phone numbers that were good in 2008

Neilson 316 299 0545 Yard Foreman
Bianney 316 633 9418 Stainless Steel man
Andres 300 362 7790 Taxi Driver 

Launch on December 20th 2007 was a happy day. With good fortune and a high tide we were able to navigate uneventfully out of the shallows and up to the anchorage off of Club Nautico. 
On December 27th we moved into Club Nautico to finish up our projects in comfort with lots of fresh water, supplies, and conveniences within walking distance. It was lovely to renew acquaintances and meet new friends. Marie Elena of El Ancla Restaurant in Venezuela is now married to Bert on Not So Interim. What a nice surprise.

A special treat was an invite to Zoila's 86th birthday party at Club Nautico. Candelaria, manager of the marina celebrated her mother's birthday royally. The band played traditional music with pan flutes and empanadas refreshments were served.

Trudy and Edward, shore side friends from Ottawa, invited us to their lovely apartment in Laguito. They have wintered here for 10 years and told us a lot of the area history over a wonderful dinner.

An absolute highlight was attending the finale performance of the Cartagena Music Festival at the Teatro Heredia. World-renowned musicians included Stephen Prutsman on the piano, Catrin Finch on the harp, Paula Robison on the flute and Elina Vahala on the violin. The second half was a concerto of the Montreal 1 Orchestra and Stephen Prutsman. The performances were breathtaking and the theater was magnificent Spanish motif with lots of marble and red velvet. The acoustics were incredible. We felt truly privileged to be in attendance.Dominoes, potlucks and yachtie events add to the camaraderie in the marina.

DEPARTING CARTAGENA COLUMBIA  JANUARY 2008

Brian and I enjoyed the freedom and security of shore side life until we cast off lines on January 23rd 2008 While exiting Bahia Cartagena the Coast Guard boarded to see if we had any extra provisions we shouldn't have. They were very polite as they looked in all cupboards. Our family picture was of great interest, and he enjoyed hearing of the children and grandchildren. Beckoning once again, the dolphins picked us up and escorted us through the Boca Chica Channel out into blue water. From here to Panama the charts are very sketchy with little detail. Islands and reefs can be as much as a mile off so we used local charts and Google Earth to aid in our navigation. We also used way points from other cruisers although with caution. Google Earth info was surprisingly accurate. Below you will see examples of this type of navigation.

Andromeda accompanied us to Cienaga de Cholon, Isla Baru, a mangrove lagoon with lots of kayakers selling their trinkets and all. Pargo (snapper) dinner on the only beach was delicious. On the chartlet you can see Tundras anchoring spot at Baru which is only about 7 miles west down the coast from entrance to the Boca Chica Channel

From here we sailed about 10 miles to the Rosarios and spent several days blowing in the wind  registering 32 knots at times. Lots more kayakers approached trying to sell their goods. Next time through we will bring more pesos so we can purchase Columbian soapstone pieces. The aviary on shore was well worth a visit. We had a young man guide us to see the birds, then on to the interior around several lagunas to see their village. Clear water for a dinghy drift snorkel was a real treat after the harbour gunge. Many touring Colombians frequent this area and also patronize the aquarium a short dinghy ride away.While removing tenacious Cartagena barnacles from Tundra's keel, I received many jellyfish stings. They provide nasty welts and itch for weeks. Body hair is a definite benefit. They didn't bother Brian at all. I speculate they arrived with a changing tide. Apparently one can get suntan lotion with sea flea and sting repellent now.

One more check by the Coastguard. This time they rammed us in the anchorage before we knew they were there. Fortunately they have big rubber guardrails. They wanted to know the captain's name and when we'd be leaving for Panama. Generally the Columbian Coast Guard have been courteous and very caring of we yachties.

On the 28th of January 2008 we parted company with Andromeda and sailed for San Bernardos. With sideband radio reception getting better, Mississauga and Panama radio nets are once again becoming a routine part of our morning schedule. It's comforting to hear familiar voices while we are traveling alone. Also back in cruising mode details making our own yogurt and attempting to sprout beans. The beans haven't been quite so successful as the yogurt.

            Above Kathy and I at anchor drill as we lift anchor in the Rosarios departing for San Bernardos on our way to Panama

Holding under Isla Tintipan in San Bernardos was marginal, so we were thankful for 2 days of quiet weather. Swimming is warm and coral is pretty. A visit to Isolate Village was an amazing experience.

On one sea level acre of land, there lived a population of 800 people. Open pirogue like ferries made regular stops, so some provisions were available. We were able to get a loaf of white bread, a cabbage, and some yucca. Fruit is a rare commodity. Kayakers hawking their wares have disappeared. It's very peaceful. Fishing is their labour from sun up to sunset.

On the 30th of January 2008 we hoisted anchor, carefully squeezed through the southwest reef following Pizzazz's way points. Unusually flat seas necessitated powering for Isla Fuerte, our last destination before heading southwest across the Gulfo de Uraba to Zapzorro. The fan belt was slipping. Brian tightened it and decided to carry on. Fortunately our wonderful 'iron genoa' got us through the reef at Isla Fuerte, guided by Antonio, and securely anchored without any problem. Turning back was not an option!

During this passage a Columbian Naval vessel headed for us on collision course so we cut throttle as they powered at top speed across our bow.

They made a good picture. That afternoon and evening we changed 2 alternators and prayed the original would work when we started the engine. Hallelujah it did! These two greasy characters surely welcomed our soapy water bath that night! Tundra is now sporting a bathtub. We brought it along as a lark, but it is wonderful, however funny it looks. It is a big plastic container that I used to wash all our coverings for storage.Happy to have work behind us once more we welcomed an island walking tour with Antonio the next morning.

En route we saw a giant mangrove complex in the middle of the island, Captain Morgan's cave with a 35-meter hole in it (very scary), and a huge Bola tree. The village is so tidy with a melange of cane and cement housing. Two schools houses, 800 students and 11 teachers. Pigs and chickens with free range are happy citizens, too. Antonio and his lovely family cooked us several fish lunches. Our dining room was his front lawn overlooking our rolly anchorage. We looked forward to our sojourns ashore. Before departing Antonio was able to find some mangoes and bananas for us. In the village we bought some deliciously sweet carrots.

Just before sunset on February 1st we hauled anchor and fought our way out through the reef. Our heading, once clear, made for a fine sail. This overnight passage presented clear air, every star in the sky and smooth sailing. A flying fish in the face snapped me out of a sleepy state about 0200. Shift work was comfortable and we made landfall at first light.

Anchoring in Zapzurro was in white sand, so we both slept soundly for a few more hours. Upon awakening we found a 50 foot catamaran anchored literally on top of us. It was a charter boat that had lost its fore stay overnight and limped in with a spinnaker halyard jury-rig. Dennis came over to fill us in on Zapzurro and jestingly asked us not to run into his boat! He regularly runs backpackers from Panama to Zapzurro. Needless to say they were entertainment for the rest of the day.

Next morning we paddled into shore for a great lunch, tour of the town, an arduous steep hike up to the border of Panama and Columbia. It was complete with barbed wire, armed guards, and close supervision. Sunday afternoon in the village square was delightful. Backpackers were being dropped off by open ferries and hiking off into the jungle.

All ages were represented and we were guarded closely by an on-duty AK47 toting young man. While in full garb he was playing football with a 2 year old in the square.

I thoroughly enjoyed watching twin 18 month olds, brother and sister, playing in a cardboard box. What an amazingly comfortable ambiance! Martha's general store was in the middle of all. She sold us a frozen chicken, eggs, bread and more while busily serving all her afternoon customers. A resident helped her convert our American dollars after we spent the last of our pesos. Readying for a boisterous heading we carved our sumptuous Cartagena pineapple. One has no idea how good it was!

Next stop is the San Blas Islands in Kuna Yala a province of Panama.

Please follow us in the next page labelled PANAMA or to go directly to this page click here on Panama Arrival  PANAMA ARRIVAL

Last Page Update May 21  2018